this hotel was recommended based on it's continental breakfast, and I do believe, between the fresh squeezed blood orange juice and limitless capucchinos, that I may never leave. But San terenzo beckons, a dreamy coastal stroll retracing the steps of the Shelleys, along rock drizzled paths that follow the water, up past the terenzo castle, until it breaks suddenly against the cliffside, smote by the seas saltwater fists...that, or maybe the local contracor pocketed the money needed for the last leg. The volcanic rock bites like an angry pommeranian, but I decide to leap the broken bridge to the cliff and mantle my way to the other side; more beautiful beach stretched against the rock, but no way around besides a swim. We return to lerici, and after a brief rest, unravel the route to the great lerici castle, a stentorian bulwark, a basilisk roused against the coming of the Barbarian horde; duly transformed into the silliest of dinosaur museums I shall er be privvy to witness. I believe John Cleese curates. The castle interior is as impressive as it's exterior battlements, but in some not too distant past, someone decided that some papier mâché raptors would really lure those tourist dollars. There was one particular raptor, clearly the outcome of a barely passing 4th grade science project, whose head had been neatly struck off and remounted with lots of copper wire, just maniacally wound about it's lilting neck like a Masai decoration. Something akin to 70s era Connery bond belly dance tabla trance was piped through the speakers in the main area, though my dream of a conga line of krunking tutu clad tyrannosaurs did not materialize. This exhibit should come with free mushrooms, or pony rides. Tommorrow we continue on to the cinque terre, to coastal hikes and sweeping vistas that labor ones eyes with fecund glory.
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